Here’s me feeding (yes, ANOTHER feeding video) my Leopard Gecko, Dagon! Quite a friendly little fellow he is, gentle when taking food from my fingers and doesn’t mind being stroked one bit. In this video, he kind of goes into a little trance for a few moments. That is, until the waxworm pupae rubs its abdomen across his nose! 
Duration : 0:1:22
This article is intended to give the reader a basic guide to caring for a pet leopard gecko.
Housing for Your Leopard Gecko
Leopard geckos do not require an elaborate setup. A simple plastic storage bin with a screen cover will do, but you will probably want to observe your Leo so a glass aquarium/terrarium may be a better choice. A 10 gallon aquarium is a good size for one leopard gecko. If you are getting 2 geckos, a 20 gallon aquarium is best.
An appropriate substrate for the bottom of your gecko’s new home can be as simple as newspaper or paper towels. Other appropriate substrates are tile, slate, or a terrarium liner. Most gecko breeders do NOT recommend using a loose substrate like sand, gravel, bark, etc. Your gecko can ingest some of the substrate accidentally when feeding, or deliberately for unknown reasons. This can lead to impaction, a condition where the digestive system is blocked.
Your leopard gecko will need to be kept at an appropriate temperature and have both a warm and cold zone. In an aquarium this can be achieved by putting a low watt lamp above one end of the tank. The warm end should be kept between 85-90 degrees F. The cool end can be the ambient room temperature, usually in the low-mid 70’s. This temperature gradient allows the gecko a way to regulate her body temperature. Remember, geckos, like all reptiles, is cold blooded and does not have the ability to generate heat.
If you use a lamp for heat, you will need a dark bulb for night time. An alternative is an under tank heater (UTH). This is either heat tape, or a pad that sticks to the glass underneath the tank. It is best to set up your gecko’s new home and adjust the temperature for several days before putting the gecko in.
A heat rock is NOT recommended as it can get hot enough to burn your gecko. So do not waste any money on one of these.
Finally, you will need to clean your gecko’s home regularly. You will need to remove the droppings daily, and thoroughly clean the cage every 4-6 weeks, including all the hides etc too. Use a strong disinfectant to kill all bacteria and mold, etc. Be sure to rinse everything thoroughly before putting your gecko back in the cage.
Ultraviolet Light Requirement?
Leopard geckos are nocturnal and do not require a source of ultraviolet-B (UVB) light like some liazards do. SO there is no need to purchase one, although some pet stores will actually try to sell you one.
Multiple Hides
Leopard geckos are nocturnal and terrestrial. That means they are active at night and prefer to stay on the ground (not in tress, etc). In nature leopard geckos hide in holes and under rocks. To make them feel at home you will need to provide hides. A small box, or specially designed hide can be used. It is best to put one in the warm end and another in the cool end. This gives them a choice. In addition, a humid hide will help your gecko molt (shed his/her skin). I use a disposable plastic container, like those made by Glad® or Ziplock®, with a hole I cut in the side and a wet paper towel inside.
Food and Water
You need to provide your gecko with a shallow bowl of fresh water. This should be changed daily to prevent bacteria growing in stagnant water. Leopard geckos eat live insects, usually crickets or mealworms. Leopard geckos need to see the food move in order to eat it. Mealworms can be placed in a shallow bowl and crickets can be released on the cage floor. Feeder insects should not be larger that the distance between your gecko’s eyes to prevent choking and digestion issues. Insects should be ‘gut-loaded’ for 24 hours prior to feeding to your gecko. Gut loading means they should have access to a good food source. A pet store will carry cricket food and drink. Meal worms come in a bedding that is their food source. I remove enough mealworms for the next day, to a small container with some bedding or wheat bran and a small piece of carrot for a water source.
Handling Your Leopard Gecko
Avoid handling your new gecko until she is used to her new home, at least a couple weeks. If you need to remove your gecko to clean the cage etc, pick it up carefully by gently gripping its body behind the front legs or letting it walk up on to your hand. Never pick it up by its tail as it may shed its tail.With time your gecko may get used to being oicked up and may even enjoy it.
There are a large number of reptile species that are kept as pets. Unlike dogs and cats, the care for different reptiles can vary considerably. Before you buy a reptile as a pet you need to consider what you are taking on. Some reptiles require a great deal of care to raise properly, while others are fairly easy to keep as a pet and make a much better first reptile.
“Why would anyone want a reptile as a pet?” That is a question you may have heard when expressing your interest in a snake, lizard or turtle. The fact is reptiles are interesting in their own way and while not cuddly like a kitten or puppy they can bring their owners a great deal of joy. It is hard to explain a fascination with a reptile to some people and I have decided I really don’t need to. I don’t need to justify my fascination with a “slimy’ lizard to anyone. And by the way they are not slimy!
A popular first reptile for many is a Leopard Gecko. While these may not be as easy to care for as a Crested Gecko, Leopard Geckos ARE cute, gentle and come in many interesting colors and patterns (morphs). Leos, as they are affectionately called, will grow to between 6-9 inches and can be kept in a 10-20 gallon aquarium (terrarium) or plastic bin. They do not need a UV-B light, like some reptiles, and don’t need to be take out and exercised either. They are content to live alone as well. But there are some things you need to consider before you bring a Leo home with you. For one, a Leopard gecko can be expected to live 5-10 years with proper care. Some have lived over 20 years although that is not common. SO you will need to be committed to the long term care of your Leo.
You will need to provide a source of heat to keep the habitat between about 85-90 degrees F. This is usually done with a lamp and or an under tank heater. It is best to set up your new gecko’s home and adjust the temperature BEFORE you bring the gecko home.
Leopard geckos are desert reptiles that prefer to live on the ground, hiding under rocks, so you do not need to have a lot of vertical climbing structures. But a couple hides are required. A hide is somewhere that the gecko can get under. Some are make to look like caves or a hollowed out log. You should have one where the heat source is and the other on the cooler side of the habitat so that your leopard gecko has a choice based on its temperature requirements. It is not recommended to use sand or other loose substrate on the habitat floor. Leopard geckos may ingest it and become impacted.
Leopard geckos eat mostly insects. Most people feed them crickets and mealworms (Tenebrio molitor). Leos prefer live insects that move as movement triggers the feeding behavior. SO if you are not comfortable handling live insects, a leopard gecko may not be for you. A young gecko may eat 5-10 small crickets or mealworms each day but as your gecko gets older it will eat much less. Crickets should not be left in the cage overnight as they may bite the gecko causing stress or infection. Mealworms can be left in a shallow food bowl. It is also important to dust the crickets and mealwoms with some calcium powder at least every other feeding.
I hope this gives you an idea of what is involved in caring for a leopard gecko. I have left out some details, so please read as much as you can if you decide to get a Leo.