There are a large number of reptile species that are kept as pets. Unlike dogs and cats, the care for different reptiles can vary considerably. Before you buy a reptile as a pet you need to consider what you are taking on. Some reptiles require a great deal of care to raise properly, while others are fairly easy to keep as a pet and make a much better first reptile.
“Why would anyone want a reptile as a pet?” That is a question you may have heard when expressing your interest in a snake, lizard or turtle. The fact is reptiles are interesting in their own way and while not cuddly like a kitten or puppy they can bring their owners a great deal of joy. It is hard to explain a fascination with a reptile to some people and I have decided I really don’t need to. I don’t need to justify my fascination with a “slimy’ lizard to anyone. And by the way they are not slimy!
A popular first reptile for many is a Leopard Gecko. While these may not be as easy to care for as a Crested Gecko, Leopard Geckos ARE cute, gentle and come in many interesting colors and patterns (morphs). Leos, as they are affectionately called, will grow to between 6-9 inches and can be kept in a 10-20 gallon aquarium (terrarium) or plastic bin. They do not need a UV-B light, like some reptiles, and don’t need to be take out and exercised either. They are content to live alone as well. But there are some things you need to consider before you bring a Leo home with you. For one, a Leopard gecko can be expected to live 5-10 years with proper care. Some have lived over 20 years although that is not common. SO you will need to be committed to the long term care of your Leo.
You will need to provide a source of heat to keep the habitat between about 85-90 degrees F. This is usually done with a lamp and or an under tank heater. It is best to set up your new gecko’s home and adjust the temperature BEFORE you bring the gecko home.
Leopard geckos are desert reptiles that prefer to live on the ground, hiding under rocks, so you do not need to have a lot of vertical climbing structures. But a couple hides are required. A hide is somewhere that the gecko can get under. Some are make to look like caves or a hollowed out log. You should have one where the heat source is and the other on the cooler side of the habitat so that your leopard gecko has a choice based on its temperature requirements. It is not recommended to use sand or other loose substrate on the habitat floor. Leopard geckos may ingest it and become impacted.
Leopard geckos eat mostly insects. Most people feed them crickets and mealworms (Tenebrio molitor). Leos prefer live insects that move as movement triggers the feeding behavior. SO if you are not comfortable handling live insects, a leopard gecko may not be for you. A young gecko may eat 5-10 small crickets or mealworms each day but as your gecko gets older it will eat much less. Crickets should not be left in the cage overnight as they may bite the gecko causing stress or infection. Mealworms can be left in a shallow food bowl. It is also important to dust the crickets and mealwoms with some calcium powder at least every other feeding.
I hope this gives you an idea of what is involved in caring for a leopard gecko. I have left out some details, so please read as much as you can if you decide to get a Leo.