Getting the Temperature of Our Leopard Gecko Habitat Correct

Posted on September 4, 2009 by Stephen

After trying to maintain the temperature of our new geckos for a few days I decided to try an under tank heater (UTH). I was reading in geckoforums.net that that is the way most keepers of geckos regulate the temperature of the habitats. Unfortunately the Premium Desert Gecko habitat kit from Zilla® did not contain an UTH, but instead 2 lights.

A quick trip to the pet supply store and I came home with an Exo-Terra® desert medium heater. It is 10×10 and sticks to the underside of the glass aquarium/terrarium. I mounted it at one end of the 20 gallon tank. We were using the terrarium carpet that came with out Zilla® set and I found that the temperature above the UTH was reading about 100 degrees F. The geckos moved to the other hide at the cool end of the tank.

So now we had another problem. How do we cool the heater down? It didn’t come with a thermostat or any way to adjust the temperature. I looked online to see what I could use. I read about adding a dimmer switch, the kind that you install on the cord of a table lamp. I found one at the hardware store for about $15. It was pretty easy to install. you just cut the cord with a pair of sicissors and insert the cord into each end, then press down on the tabs. After playing with it a bit I got the temperature to stay at about 90 F.

So what did I learn? Well I didn’t really need the lights as they don’t really work to get the proper temp and leopard geckos are nocturnal and don’t really need a bright light on the tank as long as there is light from a window they will know when it is night and time to get up.

The other thing I learned was that the UTH can keep the tank too warm if all you have for a substrate is a terrarium carpet. I hear that a piece of tile might be better. Alternatively I might have been better off with the smaller heater, but I’m not sure that wouldn’t have just made the ‘too hot’ area smaller.

Actually having the geckos and trying to maintain their environment is an interesting process. I see why it is recommended that you have the habitat ready and get the conditions right BEFORE you bring the gecko(s) home.

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Back at the pet store: part 2 of our gecko story

Posted on September 2, 2009 by Stephen

We returned to the pet store a few days later and found 2 geckos. One was a normal gecko and the other an albino. The normal was a little bigger than the albino. The reptile ‘specialist’ at the store warned us about not keeping two males together for too long but since these were both pretty small I figured that we had some time before we might have to separate them. Next we purchased 25 small crickets (not enough) and 100 small mealworms, and a plastic desert plant decoration.

The geckos were placed in their new home and they wasted no time getting in the one hide that came with the habitat. We didn’t bother them until the next morning when we offered then some crickets. They had been fed crickets at he pet store and knew what to do. At this point we didn’t really know how many crickets and mealworms they would eat. For some reason I thought they might eat 2-3 crickets a day. But they would eat more than that. We kept mealworms in a dish but it seemed they preferred the crickets.

In the mean time, I started searching the Internet for some good gecko care sites. At first it was hard to distinguish the good info from the bad, and it seemed some of the advice was contradictory. Eventually I did get some good advice and realized I needed some calcium for the Leo babies. So back to the pet store for calcium and some more crickets. Found some Leopard Gecko Calcium Plus from Repashy Superfoods at Petco and started applying it to the crickets. I found it worked best to put some calcium powder in a baggie and then add some crickets, close the bag and shake. The crickets turned white/gray and were then placed in the tank with the geckos.

One problem we noticed was that the baby leopard geckos would strike at the crickets and get their teeth caught on the carpet (Zilla® brand brown terrerium liner). We removed the carpet and realized that one side was rough and one fuzzy. We had placed it in with the fuzzy side up. So we turned it over so that the rough side was up and now the geckos do not have a problem with their teeth getting stuck. Another problem with the carpet is that it is just a bit too long for the 20 gallon tank. The end curls up a bit and this provides a place for crickets to get under and hide. Next time I clean the cage I will trim a quarter inch off the end of the carpet.

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Our leopard gecko adventure: how it started

Posted on September 1, 2009 by Stephen

Our leopard gecko adventure: how it started

A few weeks ago I was in a pet store with my 10 year old daughter to get some supplies for our dog and cat. My daughter is an animal lover and wanted to look at the animals for sale. After looking at all kinds of rodents and fish and reptiles she said she would like a pet gecko. She thought the leopard gecko babies were so cute. I thought that a gecko might be better than a guinea pig and I suggested we get a book on leopard geckos to learn more. She reminded me that I had once bought her a book on goldfish, but never actually got the gold fish and she suspected that this was another trick.

We bought the leopard gecko book and read the brief information that it had. It really was not a great book, but it explained enough that we felt we could care for a gecko. I remembered my sister had a gecko at Thanksgiving last year and called to see if they still had it and did she think it was a good pet. She was very enthusiastic and said Striker was doing great. Her children enjoyed looking after it etc.

Well about a week later we went back to see what the pet store had for gecko habitats. Olivia saw a Zilla® Deluxe Desert Gecko set up with a 20 gallon critter terrarium. It was a little more than I wanted to spend, but it did come with a screen cover, 2 lights + bulbs for day and night, a nice looking hide, 2 small dishes (for food and water), a desert brown terrarium liner (carpet), a thermometer/humidity gauge and a bottle of reptile mist. I decided that it might be the easiest way to go to get started.

We set up the habitat and checked that it maintained a good temperature. With the light on and the thermometer directly below it, it was about 85 degrees F. That seemed to be within the range that the book suggested. Although I did read about keeping one side of the enclosure at 90 degrees. All that was missing was a gecko…

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Dagon the Leopard Gecko!

Posted on August 25, 2009 by Stephen

Here’s me feeding (yes, ANOTHER feeding video) my Leopard Gecko, Dagon! Quite a friendly little fellow he is, gentle when taking food from my fingers and doesn’t mind being stroked one bit. In this video, he kind of goes into a little trance for a few moments. That is, until the waxworm pupae rubs its abdomen across his nose! :)

Duration : 0:1:22

Continue reading →

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Introduction to Leopard Gecko Care

Posted on August 23, 2009 by Stephen

This article is intended to give the reader a basic guide to caring for a pet leopard gecko.

Housing for Your Leopard Gecko

Leopard geckos do not require an elaborate setup. A simple plastic storage bin with a screen cover will do, but you will probably want to observe your Leo so a glass aquarium/terrarium may be a better choice. A 10 gallon aquarium is a good size for one leopard gecko. If you are getting 2 geckos, a 20 gallon aquarium is best.

An appropriate substrate for the bottom of your gecko’s new home can be as simple as newspaper or paper towels. Other appropriate substrates are tile, slate, or a terrarium liner. Most gecko breeders do NOT recommend using a loose substrate like sand, gravel, bark, etc. Your gecko can ingest some of the substrate accidentally when feeding, or deliberately for unknown reasons. This can lead to impaction, a condition where the digestive system is blocked.

Your leopard gecko will need to be kept at an appropriate temperature and have both a warm and cold zone. In an aquarium this can be achieved by putting a low watt lamp above one end of the tank. The warm end should be kept between 85-90 degrees F. The cool end can be the ambient room temperature, usually in the low-mid 70′s. This temperature gradient allows the gecko a way to regulate her body temperature. Remember, geckos, like all reptiles, is cold blooded and does not have the ability to generate heat.

If you use a lamp for heat, you will need a dark bulb for night time. An alternative is an under tank heater (UTH). This is either heat tape, or a pad that sticks to the glass underneath the tank. It is best to set up your gecko’s new home and adjust the temperature for several days before putting the gecko in.

A heat rock is NOT recommended as it can get hot enough to burn your gecko. So do not waste any money on one of these.

Finally, you will need to clean your gecko’s home regularly. You will need to remove the droppings daily, and thoroughly clean the cage every 4-6 weeks, including all the hides etc too. Use a strong disinfectant to kill all bacteria and mold, etc. Be sure to rinse everything thoroughly before putting your gecko back in the cage.

Ultraviolet Light Requirement?

Leopard geckos are nocturnal and do not require a source of ultraviolet-B (UVB) light like some liazards do. SO there is no need to purchase one, although some pet stores will actually try to sell you one.

Multiple Hides

Leopard geckos are nocturnal and terrestrial. That means they are active at night and prefer to stay on the ground (not in tress, etc). In nature leopard geckos hide in holes and under rocks. To make them feel at home you will need to provide hides. A small box, or specially designed hide can be used. It is best to put one in the warm end and another in the cool end. This gives them a choice. In addition, a humid hide will help your gecko molt (shed his/her skin). I use a disposable plastic container, like those made by Glad® or Ziplock®, with a hole I cut in the side and a wet paper towel inside.

Food and Water

You need to provide your gecko with a shallow bowl of fresh water. This should be changed daily to prevent bacteria growing in stagnant water. Leopard geckos eat live insects, usually crickets or mealworms. Leopard geckos need to see the food move in order to eat it. Mealworms can be placed in a shallow bowl and crickets can be released on the cage floor. Feeder insects should not be larger that the distance between your gecko’s eyes to prevent choking and digestion issues. Insects should be ‘gut-loaded’ for 24 hours prior to feeding to your gecko. Gut loading means they should have access to a good food source. A pet store will carry cricket food and drink. Meal worms come in a bedding that is their food source. I remove enough mealworms for the next day, to a small container with some bedding or wheat bran and a small piece of carrot for a water source.

Minerals and Vitamins
Leopard geckos require calcium for proper growth. You should provide a small container with calcium powder in it. A cap from a water bottle works well. Also, you need to dust your gecko’s food with calcium a few times a week. You can ge calcium in a pet store. You also need to dust food weekly with a reptile vitamin powder.

Handling Your Leopard Gecko

Avoid handling your new gecko until she is used to her new home, at least a couple weeks. If you need to remove your gecko to clean the cage etc, pick it up carefully by gently gripping its body behind the front legs or letting it walk up on to your hand. Never pick it up by its tail as it may shed its tail.With time your gecko may get used to being oicked up and may even enjoy it.

This information should get you started, however, I recommend that you read as much as possible from multiple sources to learn more details about caring for your gecko. I wish you and your gecko a long healthy relationship.
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Leopard Geckos Make a Great First Reptile Pet

Posted on August 22, 2009 by Stephen

There are a large number of reptile species that are kept as pets. Unlike dogs and cats, the care for different reptiles can vary considerably. Before you buy a reptile as a pet you need to consider what you are taking on. Some reptiles require a great deal of care to raise properly, while others are fairly easy to keep as a pet and make a much better first reptile.
Leopard Gecko
“Why would anyone want a reptile as a pet?” That is a question you may have heard when expressing your interest in a snake, lizard or turtle. The fact is reptiles are interesting in their own way and while not cuddly like a kitten or puppy they can bring their owners a great deal of joy. It is hard to explain a fascination with a reptile to some people and I have decided I really don’t need to. I don’t need to justify my fascination with a “slimy’ lizard to anyone. And by the way they are not slimy!

A popular first reptile for many is a Leopard Gecko. While these may not be as easy to care for as a Crested Gecko, Leopard Geckos ARE cute, gentle and come in many interesting colors and patterns (morphs). Leos, as they are affectionately called, will grow to between 6-9 inches and can be kept in a 10-20 gallon aquarium (terrarium) or plastic bin. They do not need a UV-B light, like some reptiles, and don’t need to be take out and exercised either. They are content to live alone as well. But there are some things you need to consider before you bring a Leo home with you. For one, a Leopard gecko can be expected to live 5-10 years with proper care. Some have lived over 20 years although that is not common. SO you will need to be committed to the long term care of your Leo.

You will need to provide a source of heat to keep the habitat between about 85-90 degrees F. This is usually done with a lamp and or an under tank heater. It is best to set up your new gecko’s home and adjust the temperature BEFORE you bring the gecko home.

Leopard geckos are desert reptiles that prefer to live on the ground, hiding under rocks, so you do not need to have a lot of vertical climbing structures. But a couple hides are required. A hide is somewhere that the gecko can get under. Some are make to look like caves or a hollowed out log. You should have one where the heat source is and the other on the cooler side of the habitat so that your leopard gecko has a choice based on its temperature requirements. It is not recommended to use sand or other loose substrate on the habitat floor. Leopard geckos may ingest it and become impacted.

Leopard geckos eat mostly insects. Most people feed them crickets and mealworms (Tenebrio molitor). Leos prefer live insects that move as movement triggers the feeding behavior. SO if you are not comfortable handling live insects, a leopard gecko may not be for you. A young gecko may eat 5-10 small crickets or mealworms each day but as your gecko gets older it will eat much less. Crickets should not be left in the cage overnight as they may bite the gecko causing stress or infection. Mealworms can be left in a shallow food bowl. It is also important to dust the crickets and mealwoms with some calcium powder at least every other feeding.

I hope this gives you an idea of what is involved in caring for a leopard gecko. I have left out some details, so please read as much as you can if you decide to get a Leo.

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